This méthode traditionelle bubbly is from Catherine Breton, who knows a thing or two about Chenin Blanc. She makes a wonderful all-purpose sparkler: crisp, dry, delicate, invigorating, affordable. I might add that the 2005, one of her first vintages, is still providing plenty of thrills today.

Janice Robinson: "Light but distinctive nose, honey and lemon character. Gentle, soothing sort of character, and genuinely dry (even at 12%). Very subtle, and pretty short, but a great lunchtime option, with a lovely savoury finish."

Vinous: "Bright gold with a frothy mousse. Pear and white peach on the nose, with complicating floral and spice qualities and a hint of orange zest. At once fleshy and dry, offering tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and slow-building spiciness. The finish repeats the orange note and leaves a strong spicy quality behind. This impressively energetic sparkling wine packs a more precise punch than plenty of non-vintage Champagnes."